And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. issue. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. I think that this time around you will find that it starts and idles really well and only gets better from there. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. mail today. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. I will let you know what the results are. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). I have it set at 650 and it idles anywhere from 590 to 700. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) What would cause the idle to faulter like that? Generally, one of two things:  a stuck throttle or noise on the TPS signal. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. Take it a step at a time. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. Am I missing something. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. Perfect for street rods, muscle cars, off road trucks or nearly any carbureted vehicle. Idle / IAC. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. Start by doing the fastest start you can that doesn't bog. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. Unit primes pump, cranks & injects cranking fuel, engine fires and then dies, no run fuel is being injected after initial start. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. Idle > IAC Kick. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. If you haven't installed a What an amazing site you have here. Thanks for all your help Chris! Drives just fine but won't stay running unless I keep my foot on the gas. I have driven car about 200 miles. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. Capability Range: Professional The window you saw in the image above pops up. I will turn it up some. You might have a bad O2 sensor, really bad exhaust leak or a problem with the ECU. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? is the fuel pressure. A couple of possibilities that come to mind in order of likelihood: I’m having an issue with what I think is the Iac. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. Pardon us as we struggle to contain our excitement about the newly released laptop tuning software exclusively for the Holley Sniper EFI Systems! If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. What is it supppse to be at idle and while driving under heavy acceleration? I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. It's all part of the adventure! You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. From here...the cycle continues and I am Thanks for the great question! I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? itself out and hold idle...eventually stalling. It is simply for the benefit of the user. Inj. Put an end to cold start issues, hesitations, vapor lock, and flooding. I have now determined with the TPS the noise correlates with the opening of the secondary butterflies. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. Drive great and idles perfect at stop signs. I put it in neutral and the idle RPM had increased to 2100-2200. The RPM would increase for no reason. Chris thank you for the info. I have changed my roc/tps to 7 from 15 but that only took me out of learn mode. And Earl's makes a fantastic little 100 PSI gauge. Nicknamed Madusa, the car is no joke and was certainly a fan favorite over the weekend. It’s timed to 36 degrees. I have a bone stock 350 that I installed a Sniper on and had the same whistle noise, presumably from air going past the butterflies. It's called tuning. I have a dual tanks and took the sniper off and put the quadrajet back on and for 2 days never an issue. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. Please advise. Any idea's? Is there away to lean the idle out? Switched from a dual plane air gap to a Holley single plane intake with my Holley sniper efi. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. All Rights Reserved. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. One of the best I’ve seen so far. In the wizard I set my Idle to 500RPM but it never got slower than 800RPM, if I run the wizard again and lower to 400 RPM then it never gets lower than 700RPM.After reading about the Idle Speed curver I checked its settings and found that the curve was 300rpm faster at every point over the temp range no matter what temp I had, I adjusted the curve to match what I put in on the wizard and now the RPM is correct, I'd say you have a bug in the wizard.Idle Speed > Idle Speed Curve: Here is where the lack of coolant temperature is going to affect you. I...like a few others...am having idle issues. Interesting situation you have. I looking for your expert opinion. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? My Sniper started having a ticking noise-- I have 90 miles on my Sniper, but this started the last 10 miles or so: it still drives fine, but it worries me so i've stopped driving it for now. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?I’ve set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. One-Owner Coyote Swapped 1989 Foxbody Mustang At Holley Ford Fest 2020 By: Holley | 02/04/2021 Greg Creamer bought his 1989 Ford Mustang LX brand new 31 years ago and has been racing just about ever since. P.S. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. It will drop down to 400 RPM then climb 500 and then shoot to 900 and then come back sometimes two or three times then catch it self an idle just fine again. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. This combines the Sniper EFI Self Learning Throttle Body, with an easy to install In-Tank Retrofit Returnless Module, 20 ft of Earl's Vapor Guard Fuel Hose, … After a complete cool down it will do the same thing. Has a good size camshaft can’t find any vacuum leaks. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" If I rev the engine a couple times in neutral it will finally return to idle & usually will not do it again for the rest of my trip. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? I'll bet you find that you can get it working great without any manual tuning. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. It's economically priced so you can have all the benefits of EFI and still have money to finish or … Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. have the system learn the higher speeds? But nothing beats a good solid gut-check That is certainly not normal! But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. My problem is low idle. If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Tried that and it didn't work? engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it... but whatever. If you can send a data log to the vendor from who you bought your Sniper EFI System they should be willing and able to take a look and recognize RFI and then give you some ideas on solving it. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. Trademarks belong to their respective owners. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. And all too often we don't take that extra step of using a piston stop to ensure that the timing pointer is on zero when the engine is truly and exactly at top dead center. If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) 3 different fuel pumps. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. If They are the only way to go in my mind. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. It felt like it was flooding out at low speed, low RPM. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. Very Quick Shipping & Help Guides Have Been Invaluable For Setting Up My Holley Sniper. Ok, so I'm stumped! I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. when things aren't working and this provides just that. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. TPS% = 1 Or, at least, it should. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. Thanks for your very detailed question! And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. That work continues today through Holley’s market-leading EFI products as well as through Holley’s family of best-in-industry brands. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. Any help would b great. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. Good luck! This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. It won't take much! Short drives is fine then it'll After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Well you were right air was entering from another source. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. I notice at 2-3% tps the iac is 18-25% and it stumbles, when the iac gets to my hold position of 30 it stops. Thanks Again for your help. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Picked up a high pressure pump (Sniper requires 60 psi). The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. It is good to at least know that the Sniper fuel pressure regulator can have high pressure failure issues (contrary to what I posted to Scott back on April 13th!) applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC Copyright © 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. I've not heard of any others with this exact issue so I don't think it is a common problem. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. Seems to behave more better now. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but it’s not consistent. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. I have not heard of this. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. I recently install a sniper efi. Price Point: $$$. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Unless you have ignition control enabled, that is the only thing it can do to reduce the idle.Realize the only things that can cause the car to idle up as you describe are air and ignition advance. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. I think I figured some of my problems out...I'll try to explain. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. I didn't find your site until I was having trouble. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. It's easy...we did it in our driveway!Read More. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. We caught up with him and his beautiful, original paint, Mustang at Holley Ford Fest 2020.Read More, ULTRA4 is the run-what-you-bring, no-holds-barred class that started King of the Hammers. Once it steadies out, it idles perfect. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Just installed a Sniper EFI using 4-wire configuration (standard coil operation). :-). Hey Chris Racing consists of rocks, sand, and all other manner of intimidating terrain, and speeds above 100mph are the norm. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. I guess we can't have everything. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure what’s going on. Let me start with the engine not starting until you press the throttle. So the issue I’m having is low idle. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. Why is this? It turns out that some of the Snipers are shipping with the minus 40-degree setting drastically lower, as shown in the following image. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. I appreciate everything you are saying. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. :-). I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . shut truck off. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start.
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