Again I locked the spindle in with the (F) #40 drill touching the center marked surface and set the drill depth to 1.125”… But I will soon give the lower a black anodize finish. Then I set the drill depth to 0.188” The lowest RPM my drill press will go to is 540 RPM. no. In a nutshell, semi-auto means with each pull of the gun’s trigger, only a single round is fired. avoid any possible problems. A standard trigger. Just remember, In the end all that is left of a man is his honor... doesnt matter how much money he has made or women he has been with. The next hole I decided to drill was the front take down pin detent hole. I clamped a flat surface to the top plane of the jig and then scribed a line at 0.250”… That is a little heavy, but the XMarkPro is easily adjustable, though … Surprised you remembered your password. This drill is used for the front and rear take down pin holes. I just bought SP1 #58x. There are some special tools you will need to follow my method of doing this project. Fits: AR-15 / AR-10.   - Calipers I put the (I) #42 aircraft extension drill in my cordless drill and drilled through both ears of the bolt catch area. Like the previous hole drilled, the location of this detent hole isn’t critical either, so I used the two-line scribe method again. SP1 info request are now daily. Consider the simplicity of the AR15 A2 configuration, otherwise known as the M16 A2 civilian rifle. Doing this will make I have today adopted Colt AR-15 SP-1 Serial number SP1368xx. This includes the (G) 1/2" drill and the (F) #40 drill. Here are a couple pics to show you what I’ll be starting with. Rev. So in theory, you really don’t need the 0.748” scribe line if you use the 0.216” diameter punch. 10 ft-lbs of torque. There are several ways to complete an 80% lower. The features are as follows. Pulling the trigger presses directly on the sear until the hammer is released. Basically the idea is to get the jig in a bench vice setting how can you tell the age of just the upper assy? 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Then I used the (G) 1/2" drill to drill down approximately 1/4". When drilling this hole, make sure you go SLOW, take small pecks, and use plenty of cutting fluid. Again, go slow and use plenty of cutting fluid and you shouldn’t have any problem tapping this hole by hand… Finishing an 80% AR15 lower is not hard at all. Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.   - Cutting Fluid (WD-40) I will once again use the 2 line scribe method. The next set of holes I drilled were those located on the buffer tower. As mentioned in the introduction, the steps I took to complete my 80% lower may not be the same steps you take.       - (G) 1/2 Drill I slapped an upper on this new firearm and took it out shooting and I didn’t have any problems at all. I believe anybody can finish an 80%’er if they have I'll edit this post with the info when I get it. Then barely start the tap into the hole and insure it stays level with the 865xx was made in 1978? So to solve this problem, I decided to just turn the drill chuck by hand while applying a little down pressure on the drill bit. I also used a 2x4 that was 7.25” long to support under the buffer tower… A set trigger, single lever, has two triggers. Also a long 3/32 drill and a long 1/8 drill. AR15.COM is the world’s largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types. All Rights Reserved. starting the 1/2" drill more forgiving… Tools Used: So I am confident the lower is in the exact location within the jig. The hole for the magazine catch was already drilled when I received my 80% lower so I didn’t have to worry about drilling that hole. I decided to use the (E) 3/8 drill next. Below is what it looked like after these holes were drilled…       - (E) 3/8 Drill The rear hole goes all the way through, but the front only goes through the right hand side of the receiver.       - (C) 1/8 Drill This drill is used for the hammer and trigger pins and also the bolt catch plunger hole. NOTE: This tutorial uses Kevin's older A1 trapdoor buttstock and birdcage flash hider. To better support the jig and receiver, I used a Columbian Clamp.   (Optional Items) Is a FA bolt in an AR an issue? I bead blasted the lower before I started this tutorial to give a better contrast of where cuts will be made. Bought it on GunBroker. I feel this spindle speed is safe for this type of manual work. A single set trigger, pushed forward sets the trigger so that the pull is lighter.   - Bubble Level Mod. One hole groups at 100 yards. To accomplish this, I touched the drill off on the top surface of the jig and locked the spindle in that position… tutorial, the jig can be used for much more than just drilling the side holes in the lower receiver. Next I drilled the trigger pin hole… I used all new drills and taps to insure The fire control group, trigger pin, hammer pin, trigger slot, and safety selector hole need to be machined to complete this lower receiver. The drill press was operated at the lowest spindle speed of 540 RPM’s throughout this project. Here is a pic showing the center mark being punched… it. As I mentioned before, this detent hole is a two-step process. Beware. I then used a center punch to mark the locations of the two holes… switch hole. V.       - (J) #3 Drill The 80% AR15 lower receiver is now 100% complete firearm. The MP7/HK97 follows the “PDW Concept”, much like the FN P90/PS90. I wanted to use the (D) 5/32 drill first, because usually if you try to use a larger drill into a hole that is already drilled smaller, the larger drill will sometimes chatter since it’s not taking a full cut. I was flirting with the 900 yard steel but the wind was giving me fits with the light bullets. Copyright © 1996-2021 AR15.COM LLC. Too many variations to sort through when buying an AR15? Then I set the travel distance of the drill press to 1.500” while the drill bit was still touched off on top of the jig… This distance was 0.487”… If you don’t remove the chips, they will get compacted in the hole and cause the drill to break or You don't In order to get the next scribe line I had to remove the receiver from the jig, but it’s not a big deal because it’s easy to re-align the receive in the jig. I also have pics of #13X and these 2 rifles are identical to the smallest detail so it is probable that they are from the same production run and possibly/probably assembled the same day. You don’t have to use a clamp, it just makes the job a little easier…       - (F) #40 Drill To do this I turned the jig upside-down and set it on the edge of the drill press table. Now there is an X and Y scribe line and you can simply drill where these two lines cross. Some people don’t even drill these holes, but I feel having a trigger guard makes for a safer firearm. I used a (F) #40 drill for this hole. From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm. The idea to drill and tap this hole is to slide the pistol grip on the lower receiver, and then use a sharpie marker to mark the location of the hole. of the Hole I wasn’t too worried about the life of my CNC jig since I usually machine all of my stuff on a CNC machining center, but if you want to extend the life of your jig, you can use transfer punches to center mark the locations of the holes to be drilled instead of actually drilling through the jig. I set the calipers to 1.575” and again referenced the top plane of the buffer tower… Here’s a pic showing that…  I used the dremel with a sanding stone and ground a little indention for the clearance. I drilled the detent hole first with a (F) #40 drill. The first line I scribed was the distance from the back of the buffer tower to the The first line I scribed was the distance from the top of the buffer tower to the center of the 1/2" hole, which was a distance of 1.696”… From the top surface of the jig, you need to drill down 1.500”. Also a …   I. It is no longer in SP1 configuration, when I bought it it had been converted into an M4gery. I just bought a police trade in Colt SP1 in exc condition. accepting applications for new sig line. I used a 0.216” diameter transfer punch… The location of this hole is not extremely critical, so I just scribed a couple lines, punched the hole location and drilled the hole. Freedom15 Pour Checklist - PDF Download.       - (D) 5/32 Drill CK forge marked upper with typical Colt proofs forward of ejection port door. It's been fine since I changed the trigger. It uses a (D) 5/32 drill for a depth of 0.188” and a (C) 1/8 drill all the way through the hole until you reach the 3/8 selector switch hole. The handguard on the first rifle might be a Chinese copy of something. After you mark the location and remove the pistol grip, you should have something like this… The blueprint can be used for reference   - 3/16 Allen Hex Wrench You also want to make sure the chips are cleaned off the drill every time you take the drill back into the hole. Create a comprehensive back-up sighting system by installing this Daniel Defense A1.5 Fixed Iron Sights, Front & Rear.Daniel Defense constructed these AR 15 Iron Sights from durable yet lightweight aircraft-grade aluminum that's Type III hard coat anodized for resistance to corrosion and an extended lifetime of use. On the right is FN’s 5.7×28. • Integral Trigger Guard - Designed to function with a gloved finger • Thicker Buffer Tube Support • Reinforced Buffer Tube Threads Figure the this will get us by for now: Oh yeah, post details on your here, and I will add it once I get a chance. As you can see in this I had issues with trigger pins walking out with the stock trigger on the FORT carbine. Ekie, when did SP1 carbines go into production? So, I can assume that my SP1, ser. www.cncguns.com You may have seen some of the other projects I’ve completed using CNC machining centers. A good barrel and a good trigger … Below is a pic after all of this was done… value? There is no set in stone rule as to which drills you must begin with. The first thing I done was aligned the receiver in the jig. 515xx here. I. Do not go more than 1/4 of a turn without checking to insure the tap and jig are both still level. The Glock 26 Gen 5 is the newest iteration of the baby Glock. Some people get patience. Size Diagram and AR15 blueprint. Simply slap jig on the receiver as show below and secure it with a C-clamp. Should have it next week, or the week after. I have the chance to buy a Colt SP1 for a reasonable amount. Colt mfg. I drilled both holes while the jig was laying on the left hand side of the receiver. Diagram & Blueprint: Click or tap to use in each location. Once I was sure both surfaces were flush, I tightened the two       - (A) 1/4 Drill       - (B) 13/64 Drill Unless you are able to get the jig very secure, this size of drill will tend to vibrate and chatter in the hole. This can cause a heavier trigger pull. The Remington Model 700 is a series of bolt-action rifles that have become nothing short of iconic in the world of hunting, and it continues to be one of the best-selling Remington rifles available on the market even after satisfying customers for the past 50 years. Parked MPC marked bolt. The rear trigger is pulled to "set" the front trigger for a lighter pull. This drill is used for the hammer and trigger pins and also the bolt catch plunger hole. For example, if 0,0 is the pivot pin hole location, then the take-down pin hole will be at 6.375~0.00. | Tutorial, -   - 2x4 piece of wood - 2.50” tall The Make sure you use plenty of cutting fluid, as it will make turning the tap a whole lot easier. The CNC jig takes all the guesswork out of finishing this project. Next I drilled the front take down pin hole… Postban? Only the lower though, no details, sorry. C marked closed end parked bolt carrier with forward assist notches. I applied cutting fluid to the drill before drilling each hole. below are items that make the job easier, but they aren’t required. With a little patients anybody can do it. This gun had the Edgewater buffer, milled sight, chrome bolt with diagonal cuts behind the lugs, marked "M" and "P" but no "C" - park'd AR-15 (not M16) carrier, carrier key screws had one square stake apiece. My SP1 has the following: I have SP1 441xx, 20", slick side, triangular, old school cool. walk off position. I just put money down on a SP1 rifle, condition appears to be excellent overall, although the rifle was fired...and then put in a closet for 20+ years. Tutorial Not mine yet but 555xx. Below is a pic of the drills & taps I used. If you happen to get this hole off location a little bit, you can simply open up the hole that’s in the pistol grip itself. I used the (J) #3 drill for the pistol grip hole. Although viewing those projects is neat, it’s usually not possible for the average guy to use CNC equipment to complete his lower. Before I drilled these holes, I wanted to make some clearance for the drill on the front trigger guard pin hole.   - Sharpie Marker The serial number range is 108XX. Next, I used the (C) 1/8 drill to drill the front and rear trigger guard pin holes. And below is a pic showing the jig level front to back… jig by placing the level on the front In this tutorial I will demonstrate how easy it is to complete an 80% AR15 lower receiver using the CNC Gunsmithing jig. I guess this thread isn't visited to often? I'll soon have an SP1. "Silent" type sling. I set the calipers to 0.818” and referenced the inside of the jig as shown in this pic… Barrel marked CMP Chrome Bore. Then I took a flat object and made sure the back of the buffer tower was flush with the back of the jig. The next step in the 80% lower project is to drill the buffer tube hole out to on the pics below to download pdf files have to use new drills, you just need to
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